Caravans of Faith and Memory

SAINTES MARIES DE LA MER, FRANCE — Many Romani communities have continued to live a nomadic lifestyle. But in France, they have settled down while maintaining strong ties to their traditions and history. At the end of each May in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, on the border between Provence and Languedoc, the local Romani community hosts a pilgrimage in honor of St. Sara the Black, their patron, and for some, their queen. For days, the town comes alive with caravan encampments amid music, dancing and barbecues. The many families belonging to the “gens du voyage” community, as Roma are called in France, mingle with the inhabitants of Saintes Maries and the large numbers of tourists who come to watch the procession of the saint. Although the pilgrimage’s origins are ancient, the tradition was institutionalized and codified in 1935 when the Marquis Folco de Baroncelli, founder of the Nacioun Gardiano, officially recognized the role of Roma — once derisively known as “gypsies” — in the identity of the region. (Photos by Stefano Schirato)

Saintes Maries de la Mer, France. 

White Camargue horses roam freely in the paddock of the Maison du Cheval Camargue – Mas de la Cure. This native breed, emblematic of the region, has long been raised by Provençal herdsmen and accompanies processions during the Romani pilgrimage. 

Saintes Maries de la Mer, France.

François Beaudier, 74, a Romani man, lives in a caravan in the village of Haussy, in northern France. A former artisan, he spent years selling handwoven baskets, dried flowers and small goods — carrying on a long-standing family tradition. Though his small business closed in 2019, François continues to embrace a nomadic lifestyle. His presence at the pilgrimage is a testament to the enduring identity of a people who live by memory, faith and the road.

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

Mimì, 90, is the eldest member of the Baptiste family. She holds a deeply respected place within the extended clan. In Romani culture, elders like Mimì are guardians of memory and transmitters of identity. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France. 

Carine Jacqueson becomes emotional while speaking about her husband, Jan Dam, whose photo is prominently displayed in the wooden caravan where she and her daughters are staying during the pilgrimage. Carine traveled to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer to ask St. Sara for a miracle after Jan suffered a severe stroke that left him in a vegetative state. He is currently hospitalized in Nîmes. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

Adèle Beaudier, 2, plays with a toy gun in front of her father’s caravan. She is the granddaughter of François Beaudier, a well-known figure in the Romani community who lives year-round in a caravan in Haussy, northern France. The Beaudier family set up camp near the beach, as they do each year, in anticipation of the pilgrimage of Saint Sara. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

A member of the extended Baptiste family cooks a large paella over an open flame as relatives gather around their caravans ahead of the pilgrimage. Meals are prepared and shared outdoors, while children play nearby and adults talk, laugh and reconnect. The Baptiste family holds a unique role in the pilgrimage: for generations, they have been the only ones entrusted with carrying the statue of St. Sara the Black into the sea on May 24 — a gesture that is both sacred and symbolic. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

A group of Romani pilgrims, likely from outside France, lean against a railing adorned with two flags: one green and blue featuring the red wheel symbol — the emblem of the Romani people — and another depicting the Madonna. This annual pilgrimage, held at the end of May, attracts between 25,000 and 40,000 pilgrims from across Europe, making it one of the largest Romani gatherings in the world. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

In the days leading to the pilgrimage of St. Sara, the extended Baptiste family gathers in a field near the town, where their caravans are parked close together. Children play between vehicles, while adults prepare food, share drinks and enjoy time together — a moment of reunion, tradition and family life that defines the atmosphere before the sacred procession. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

A close-up of a Romani man’s arm as he strums his guitar, his forearm emblazoned with a bold lion tattoo stretching from wrist to elbow. The lion — a symbol of courage, pride and identity — mirrors the spirit of the music rising from the encampment. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

A Romani man plays the trumpet along a narrow street, adding to the vibrant and ever-present soundscape that fills the town in the days leading up to the pilgrimage. Music, laughter and the hum of conversation echo from every corner as thousands of Romani pilgrims begin to arrive. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

On an early evening, Romani musicians play guitar while locals and tourists gather to listen. A young boy climbs a tree for a better view of the scene. People sing, dance and enjoy the music in a relaxed, lively atmosphere. 

Saintes Maries de la Mer, France.

Although not officially recognized by the Catholic Church, the procession of St. Sara is conducted as a deeply rooted traditional religious ceremony. She is honored in an underground crypt within the sanctuary. Following tradition, the faithful light a candle — one among hundreds already glowing in the small grotto — to ask for miracles and blessings. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

Adèle Beaudier,2, is brought by her parents to the crypt of the Church of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, where the statue of St. Sara the Black is kept. In a quiet moment, she touches the Saint’s richly adorned robes — a traditional gesture of devotion and reverence practiced by many Romani pilgrims. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

Jean-François Baptiste, right, and his sons prepare to lift the statue of St. Sara the Black and begin the procession. 

Saintes Maries de la Mer, France.

Representatives of the Nacioun Gardiano, on horseback, wait outside the church to escort the procession for the statue of St. Sara. The Nacioun Gardiano is a cultural association founded in 1904 with the aim of preserving and promoting the traditions of the Camargue, a region in southern France. ‘Nacioun Gardiano’ translates to ‘Nation of the Guardians,’ referring to the traditional local herdsmen who play a vital role in cattle management and the preservation of agricultural practices in the region.

The association is also known for its commitment to safeguarding local customs, such as the courses camarguaises (nonviolent bull games), as well as celebrations linked to Romani culture. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

A member of the pilgrimage organization adjusts a ceremonial ribbon in preparation for the procession. 

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, France.

Dressed in traditional Romani fashion, a woman adorned with gold earrings and several gold necklaces bearing crosses and religious symbols walks beside the statue of St. Sara during the procession. As the statue moves slowly toward the sea, a wave of emotion sweeps through the crowd, pilgrims push forward, hands outstretched, hoping to touch the brightly colored garments draped over the saint. This act of devotion is believed to bring blessings, protection and healing. 

Saintes Maries de la Mer, France.

As the statue of St. Sara is carried toward the sea, a massive crowd of faithful surges forward to accompany her into the water. The beach and shallow waves are filled with thousands of pilgrims packed shoulder to shoulder, singing, praying, weeping and reaching out to touch or kiss the statue’s vibrant cloak. It’s a moment of intense collective emotion, where devotion becomes both physical and deeply symbolic.

Among the sea of worshippers are Romani people from across Europe: Romanichals from the Balkans and Romania, French Manouches, Spanish Kalé and Hungarian Tziganes, just a few of the many Romani communities that gather each year. Each group brings its own customs, music and expressions of faith, turning the pilgrimage into a unique convergence of spiritual fervor and cultural celebration. 

Saintes Maries de la Mer, France.

Representatives of the Nacioun Gardiano escort the procession. The Nacioun Gardiano plays a vital role in keeping Camargue traditions alive, serving as cultural guardians and fostering a strong sense of identity and community among its members and local residents. The guardians ride white Camargue horses and wear colorful patterned shirts and traditional wide-brimmed hats, with tridents in hand, the iconic tool and symbol of their role. 

Saintes Maries de la Mer, France.

White horses guided by members of the Nacioun Gardiano step gracefully into the sea, leading the way for St. Sara’s procession and the faithful who follow. These horses, symbols of purity, embody the deep bond between the guardians and the Camargue’s land and sea. The community gathers with anticipation for the sacred moment when the statue enters the water, marking the pilgrimage’s climax. As the procession reaches the beach, devotees wade into the sea up to their knees in an act of purification — a ritual believed to have roots in Hindu traditions, similar to the practice of bathing in the Ganges River to cleanse the soul. 

Saintes Maries de la Mer, France.

The members of the Nacioun Gardiano wait patiently on their white horses for the procession to enter the water. 

Additional reporting by Alfonso Pinto.