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You Are More Than What You EatPosted on Feb 14, 2008BOSTON—I am sitting at the breakfast table taking my medicine. This drug is a cup of coffee formerly identified by its native and urban origins: Sumatra and Peet’s. But now it has been declared good for what might eventually ail me, if what might ail me is Parkinson’s disease or colon cancer. Coffee has also been praised as a prevention for diabetes in Minnesota and cursed as a risk for diabetics in North Carolina, but I am in Massachusetts. On my place mat is a bowl of Anti-Oxidants Formerly Known As Blueberries. These round little health capsules have been scientifically evaluated as a barrier against mental decline and cancer. Alas, they come from Chile, which is not good for my carbon footprint. I am pondering an egg, which was once considered a suicidal act, death by cholesterol. Now it is praised for its carotenoids—lutein and zeaxanthin—essential for healthy eyes. These healthy eyes are needed to read the newspaper stories in front of me full of the latest food health bulletins. The first dateline is New York City, which, you may recall, has joined the crowd in banning those evil trans fats that were once our salvation against those devilish animal fats. Now the city has also decided that calories of every dish should be posted in chain restaurants. The second dateline is Seattle, which has predictably one-upped the East Coast. Its new law will not only list the calories but the carbohydrates, fats and sodium lurking in the beurre blanc, creme fraiche and Big Mac. How did it come to this? How did eating become a science rather than an art? How did food become conflated with medicine? We now have shelves full of boxes with bragging rights promising better eating through chemistry. Meanwhile, our uncertainty is growing as quickly as our waistlines.Imagine what our ancestors would have made of a book titled “In Defense of Food.” They would never have believed that food needed a defense attorney. But one of the leading indicators of the fix we are in is how quickly Michael Pollan’s manifesto vaulted to the very top of the best-seller list. There it sits, proof of the transformation of the land of plenty into the land of plenty of anxieties. Pollan’s last book raised “The Omnivore’s Dilemma”—what to eat. He masticated the meaning of four meals for people, the earth and the agricultural industry. He single-handedly made locavore the word of the year for the New Oxford American Dictionary. Think global, eat local. Now he solves the omnivore’s dilemma with seven little words wrapped around a head of lettuce on the new book cover: “Eat Food. Not Too Much. Mostly Plants.” (Not including the philodendron.) And the word that he’s launching this year is “orthorexia,” an unhealthy fixation with healthy eating. “What other animal needs professional help in deciding what it should eat?” he asks, recognizing the absurdity of the need for his own advice. Two different forces got us here. The first is “nutritionism,” the idea fostered by science that food is nothing more than the sum of its nutrients. The second and more pernicious force is the $36-billion food-marketing industry that turns food into “food-like substances.” Remember the French paradox: wine, cheese and low weight? Well, the American paradox, Pollan writes, is “a notably unhealthy population preoccupied with nutrition and diet and the idea of eating healthily.” His tips for the land of the overweight orthorexics are rather charmingly simple. Among them: Avoid products made with ingredients you can’t read or pronounce. Avoid products making health claims on the package. Yes, eat plants. (But not the sansevieria.) But the best of them is: Don’t eat anything your great-grandmother wouldn’t recognize as food. Frankly, I’m pretty sure my great-grandmother never saw an avocado, let alone a kiwi. But I am all for moving from what conservatives grudgingly call the nanny state to the great-granny state. Even as we speak, someone working to combine the eating disorder with the great American paradox must be writing the very next best-seller: The Great-Granny Diet. You read it hear first. Meanwhile, the moguls of the agricultural-industrial complex will work up a Great-Granny product line. And we will soon see Great-Granny stickers on all the beleaguered fruit and vegetables that line the market walls. In the meantime, I plan to begin eating at least one plant that my great-granny knew so well: the good old Theobroma cacao. Rich in flavanols, not to mention polyphenols, this is after all a known treatment for fatigue, coughs and anxieties—and maybe even orthorexia. What was it my great-granny called this plant? Oh yeah, chocolate. Ellen Goodman’s e-mail address is ellengoodman(at)globe.com. © 2008, Washington Post Writers Group Elsewhere: . CommentsAre you a Truthdig member yet? Login now, or register with Truthdig. Add Your Comment
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By ihy, February 18, 2008 at 11:28 pm #
(Unregistered commenter)
yes yes! and then increase the risk of passing on disease and bad habits to your children! Bravo, Bravo, how considerate. You can enjoy life by eating healthy too you know. All the while looking and feeling better at the same time.
Enjoy life, be responsible, educate yourself and consider those around you from time to time.
one love.
Report thisBy SuperVegan, February 18, 2008 at 11:17 pm #
(Unregistered commenter)
Try Almond Milk. Sweetened or Unsweetened. Works wonders and it’s much healthier.
Report thisBy jackpine savage, February 17, 2008 at 12:12 pm #
I won’t disagree with your final sentence…times change and we must change with them.
However, if your only exposure to Pollan is Goodman’s post, you’ll be left misunderstanding his point…though it sounds as though your grandfather would understand him perfectly.
He speaks to eating real food, rather than industrial, food-science products. Washington, regardless of his vegetable intake, would have had no other choice than to eat real food.
As an aside, Mt. Vernon doesn’t give a wholly accurate picture of the man. His diaries clearly state that he was culling male hemp plants from his fields…the only reason for doing so would be to stop pollination of the females, and the only reason for doing that is to use cannabis as a drug.
Report thisBy troublesum, February 17, 2008 at 11:49 am #
Goodman should have read the book before reviewing it. Pollan was interviewed on democracynow!: http://www.democracynow.org/2008/2/13/in_defense_of_food_author_journalist
Report thisBy kath cantarella, February 17, 2008 at 1:14 am #
(Unregistered commenter)
and their scientific studies?
Report thisBy Alice, February 16, 2008 at 1:38 pm #
(Unregistered commenter)
My grandfather was the only one on his affluent block to feed his children vegetables all through the winter. He had a garden and stored his root vegetables in the root cellar, canned the rest. Point is: NO ONE else did! (according to my mother). George Washington ate meat encased in pastry and very few vegetables with lots of nutrition from wine according to Mount Vernon displays.
No, we need to re-assess our nutrition each generation.
Report thisBy rhbee, February 16, 2008 at 11:44 am #
I think therefore . . . I realize as doth Ellen that we are being, and willingly so, Dr. Philed to death. How did it come to this? I look to the voracious appetite for something to occupy our mindless days. The wasteland across which the recent writer’s strike called out the real in realty programming. Everything must be commodified. Even this comment section was adsensed.
Report thisBy jackpine savage, February 15, 2008 at 7:23 pm #
As jcw points out below…i don’t think that Ms. Goodman gets it.
Generally, when Pollan talks about eating, he doesn’t talk about eating healthy…he talks about eating well.
Eating well is something that most of us don’t even know because we’ve either never done it or its been so long that we forgot.
If you’ve ever eaten a nice, rare, grass-fed steak then you know what i’m talking about. If you’ve ever eaten a real egg, you’ll know them by the dark orange of their yolk and the fact that you can separate it by picking it up with your fingers, then you know what i’m talking about. If you know what a tomato that has ripened on the vine (with the vine attached to the roots) tastes like, or a cucumber that’s never been inside a refrigerator tastes like then you know what i’m talking about.
Eat well people, its not about counting nutrients…if you eat well they’re all there, you don’t even have to think about it.
For those who don’t garden, here are a few simple tips.
1. visit your local food co-op and find a CSA (community supported agriculture) program; its generally reasonable in price, though you get what’s in season…life is full of trade offs. Basically, you pay a regular fee, and for that you get a big box of food straight from the farmer once a week.
2. visit http://www.eatwild.org and you can find farmers near you; real farmers to buy produce, dairy, eggs, and meat from. If you’re really with it, find some friends and split a cow and/or a pig…the price comes down and the farmer can often do the slaughter/process himself (because it isn’t retail).
3. Plant a garden! Three tomato plants is enough to over feed two people all summer, with enough left over for making spaghetti sauce. Don’t buy an ornamental tree for your yard, plant a fruit tree…a semi-dwarf apple tree (only 15’ tall) will produce around a bushel/year…that’s a lot of apples.
4. Buy a breadmaker. It will pay for itself in no time, your house will smell wonderful, and bread will no longer be just empty carbs.
This article will get buried soon, but if you’re really interested in what you can do and how you can do it, let me know and i’ll give you an email. Or Truthdig can commission me to write a little piece about freeing yourself by getting off one grid at a time.
Cheers
Report thisBy jackpine savage, February 15, 2008 at 7:07 pm #
Yep.
While i’ve read everything else that Pollan’s written, i haven’t read this yet. I did read another review that called him a “food snob”, and i couldn’t believe it.
I cannot believe that this post does justice to the point of the book.
Report thisBy GW=MCHammered, February 15, 2008 at 11:33 am #
(Unregistered commenter)
I stopped doing everything the TV, experts and presidents told me to do once I learned that for ‘living right’ they no longer put Gold Stars on gravestones.
Report thisBy jcw, February 14, 2008 at 9:59 pm #
(Unregistered commenter)
Anything Michael Pollan writes is well considered and thoughtful. Goodman seems to have missed the point, though. Pollan DOESN’T describe blueberries as anti-oxidants; he CHALLENGES the notion that blueberries should be reduced to their constituent nutrients. And given an avocado and a PowerBar, which does Ms. Goodman think her grandmother would pick as food?
Frankly, Goodman’s piece doesn’t accomplish anything but show her cluelessness on the subject.
Report thisBy Dr. Knowitall, PhD, PhD, February 14, 2008 at 7:44 pm #
Everyone’s grandmother said to eat you fruits and veggies. The cycle of BS always eventually comes back to that wisdom.
So eat your fruits and veggies, stay out of supermarkets and avoid the media. Then your body will be the perfect target for some bombing zealot or a drunk driver or a deranged gunslinger thrown out of work by the Bush administration’s idiotic economic bungling.
I say, with all crap in the world, when you get home from a day out, open your pie hole and shove in the most decadent, best tasting crap you can find and do that every day. Not much else about life tastes that good and it’s ORAL!!!
Report thisBy Aegrus, February 14, 2008 at 12:30 pm #
I doth protest!!!
Some things, like high fructose corn syrup, actually aren’t as tasty as their equivalent (sugar, maple syrup, molasses, honey). Also, tryptophan is an essential amino acid, so it’s actually good. Also, cholesterol is important to body functions as well. People on the no-cholesterol and no-fat diets are severely malnourished.
Report thisBy Maani, February 14, 2008 at 11:51 am #
Heck with all that! Give me my eggs clucking and my steak moo-ing, both with enough salt to get rid of the ice on my sidewalk. Give me peanut butter and jam sandwiches on Wonder bread. Give me lobster until I throw up. I want MSG in my Chinese food, sulfites in my wine, tryptophan in my turkey, and extra cholesterol in my lard. Give me fruit juices and ice teas with lots of high fructose corn syrup, the greasiest potato chips on the market, and just enough coffee to dissolve the ten packets of sugar in my cup.
Report thisBy bbwgirl69, February 14, 2008 at 11:45 am #
I find this article is very helpful for us. I am an overweight girl, dated a big handsome guy on pluscupid.com. We will learn from the great information to live a healthy life.
Report thisBy Aegrus, February 14, 2008 at 10:44 am #
Lovely article. Ellen has contributed another piece for thought.
Actually, I am something of a nutrition freak. A lot of my time is spent analyzing the mineral content of foods I eat (or might want to eat). Additionally, I do a lot of research regarding specific polyphenols, oils and other chemical properties present in my beverages and foods which may improve my overall health, memory and try to counter-act all the smoking I’ve done. (recently quit *crosses fingers*)
All this said, I’m still a nut for culture as well. I like trying exotic foods and using unknown spices and foodstuffs in my kitchen. Being both German and Italian, I spend a lot of time making my own breads, pasta and sauces/sausage. It’s important to keep cuisine alive along culture.
Am I a health-nut… not per se. I am very interested in nutritional properties of foods, but I believe in butter, speck and bacon fat. You tell me a better way to make mashed potatoes than with copious amounts of heavy cream and butter, and I’ll worship at your altar.
Report thisBy Expat, February 14, 2008 at 9:39 am #
^ we lack common sense in all things. The evidence is in what we read and the books on the best seller list. Now a primer on how to eat well? LOL, eat drink and be merry, for tomorrow we may die. Enjoy life and don’t be stupid.
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