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Ellen Goodman: What’s Eating Us About Eating Lobster?

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Posted on Jul 12, 2006

By Ellen Goodman

Editor’s note: In this column Goodman writes that the arguments for banning the cooking of live lobsters may have their merits, but by making lobster meat just another shrink-wrapped commodity we further disconnect ourselves from the food chain that sustains us.


CASCO BAY, Maine—It’s 8 a.m. and my neighbor, Bob Putnam, has been at work for hours by the time he eases the lobster boat up to the dock to take this slacker on board.

For two decades, my neighbor has brought lobsters to our kitchen and tolerantly discussed my pet theory of lobster “behavior modification.’’ Lobsters are not just “caught,’’ after all. They’re fed and ranched over a bay floor nearly covered with traps. They walk in and out of the traps in search of their free lunch. They are hauled up and thrown back for about seven years until they reach legal size and are sent to market.

But today, as Bob hauls traps strung between his fluorescent pink and brown buoys, our conversation shifts. This is the talk of the bay this summer: How did lobsters, of all creatures, come to occupy center stage in the new American drama about ethics and eating?

A few weeks ago, Whole Foods, the natural-food chain, announced that it would no longer carry live lobsters. When the spokeswoman said, “This is about quality of life’’—the life of the lobsters in a tank—a collective “oh puh-leeze’’ echoed along the Maine coastline. Meanwhile in Italy, a whole city outlawed cooking live lobsters. And the website of PETA, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, which has long touted lobster liberation, offered elaborate instructions on how to free this crustacean Willy.

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This has led to more ridicule than outrage in a place where aquatic arthropods occupy a place on the food chain reflected by the origin of their name: insects. Not surprisingly, Bob places lobsters a lot lower than the angels. “Lobster is more related to an insect than a mammal,’’ he says and, before I can stop him, adds sardonically, “When a mosquito lands on your arm, what do you do?’‘

As the new chair of the Maine Lobster Promotion Council, Bob then offers a somewhat more nuanced view of the controversy. “I find it strange that people are squeamish about killing lobsters but don’t mind eating hamburgers,’’ he says. “As for the quality of life, would you rather be a salmon in a pen, a steer in a feedlot, or a lobster walking around the ocean for seven years?’’

The heated arguments—about the relative morality of selling live or dead lobsters, about the relative cruelty of boiling, steaming, stabbing or stunning lobsters—are a bit precious for folks who live in a fish-eat-fish world. But if there is any good news, it’s about a movement reconnecting diners with their dinner, prompting us to think about what we eat.

Ethical eating is not, to put it mildly, a simple equation. In the book at the top of my summer reading list, Michael Pollan calls it “The Omnivore’s Dilemma.’’ Eating industrial beef, he writes at the end of a horrific chapter, “takes an almost heroic act of not knowing.’’ But free-range chicken is also, he proves, “something of a joke, an empty pastoral conceit.’’ Even vegans find no moral purity in his book for eating grain “harvested with a combine that shreds field mice.’’

If indeed the average food travels 1,500 miles to an American plate, how do you chart that journey in ethical terms? By focusing on the health of the diner, the dinner, the laborer, the land? How do you compare the morality of eating veal with the morality of flying baby lettuce leaves across the country on jet fuel?

In Europe, where ethical eating focuses on sustaining local farms and farmers, a favorite slogan is “Eat the View.’’ With my island view, I have acquired a lust for fishing and have overcome squeamishness about the fish out of water. Some summer nights I smugly dine on food that’s traveled no farther than the vegetable garden, the raspberry bushes and the clam flats. Unless, of course, I count the olive oil and the coffee.

Those of us who think about what we eat will end up making our own moral, somewhat irrational, sometimes convenient calculations. But when live lobster becomes the forbidden fruit of the sea, don’t we have the ethics of eating exactly backward?

This is one of the last dinners many people ever see alive. Banish it from view into another shrink-wrapped, precooked, frozen “product’’ and what have we done except remove ourselves one creature further from reality?

“Eating is not a bad way to get to know a place,’’ writes Pollan drolly. It’s not a bad way to get to know a bay where seals compete for lobsters and my neighbors raise next year’s catch on redfish and herring. But it’s also not a bad way to get to know our own, complicated, place in nature.
   
Ellen Goodman’s e-mail address is ellengoodman(at symbol)globe.com.


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By Dan, September 7, 2009 at 5:08 pm #
(Unregistered commenter)

Arguing that humans should not consider the pain
caused to the non-human animals they eat because
those animals do not consider the pain they inflict
on what they eat is pure STUPIDITY.

Yes, eating other animals as they die a slow painful
death is VERY common in nature. Well, so is RAPE.

Since dolphins don’t consider the pain caused to the
non-reproductive female they rape, why should a human
not be allowed to rape another?

Humans are logical and can reason. Reasoning and
logic forbids us from justifying rape merely because
it exists in nature, and it should forbid us from NOT
considering the pain we inflict on other species to
please our taste buds.

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By RN Perry, June 24, 2007 at 11:03 am #
(Unregistered commenter)

This entire discussion is pretty silly. 

There’s something very unnatural in the assertion that a predator should consider its prey’s pain threshold.  Only humans, due to their ease in obtaining food (usually handed to them by someone else), have the luxury of taking this into consideration.

Do lobsters consider their prey’s pain as they crack open the shell of a live clam or crab or grab a live fish and tear it to pieces?  I doubt it.

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By Bernadine Collicott, July 15, 2006 at 1:38 pm #
(Unregistered commenter)

There are so many questions regarding our food supply.  For thousands of years we’ve been living in harmony with and also eating animals as part of the human diet.  Only in the past hundred years has that connection has been severed.  We always refer to the connection the Native Americans had, but actually all of mankind has been intimately connected to animals and the land for tens of thousands of years.  How is it humane to take animals for hundreds of miles cooped up in a cattle truck, with no room to hardly breathe, let alone move.  People are so disconnected from their food supply that they’ll poison their yards, kill all the dandelions ( a prized herb and green till they upset the green lawn image)poison their water supply, manufacture plastic bottles to contain water and then pollute the landscape with plastic that uses oil to produce.  Since we’re so unaware of what we’re doing and what’s happening around us, we seem to jump on the bandwagon on each new issue.  Until we are responsible for what we do to all animals, and the land and water, people will continue to jump on each new issue, I think just to assuage their nagging conscience.

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By Joshua Welch, July 15, 2006 at 9:47 am #
(Unregistered commenter)

When living in a society that has based it’s food industry on exploiting sentient beings and nature, it’s certainly not easy to eat without supporting violence and cruelty at some level.  In other word we must choose the option that required the least amount of violence.  Ms. Goodman points out that, “Even vegans find no moral purity in his book for eating grain “harvested with a combine that shreds field mice.’’ The idea that Ms. Goodman comes to the conclusion that Whole Foods decision only disconnects us from our food is rather ridiculous.  Whole Foods choice not to sell live lobsters is a more moral decision which gives their customers a better option and has spurred debate on this issue which is much needed.  It seems to me that Ms. Goodman, like most humans refuses to recognize that all creatures have intrinsic value and do not deserve to be treated like objects to exploited, but rather subjects to be communed with.  If we all began with this premise the debate of whether to boil alive lobsters or not would not exist.

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By Sharon Lacoste, July 14, 2006 at 3:27 pm #
(Unregistered commenter)

First and foremost the discussion is about HOW the creature dies; the agony and cruelty endured.  It seems evident that that is too much of a nicety to deal with for Ms. Goodman.  If we won’t give up eating our fellow creatures (which we should and can do, readily), we must at least attend to the MOST HUMANE means of killing them for food.  Killing humanely seems like an oxymoron as does so much human endeavor.  But, in fact, in every instance the same should be the goal.  In thinking of your own demise, Ms. Goodman, I’m sure if you had a choice, you’d choose to die in your sleep rather than being skinned alive, boiled alive, or eaten alive.

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By RD Abrams, July 14, 2006 at 2:42 pm #
(Unregistered commenter)

The humane way to sacrifice a lobster for a meal is to take the live one (freshest and best this way) and plunk it into a pot of cool, fresh water on top of the stove. Cover the top and turn on the heat. Long before this animal can “feel” pain, the oxygen in the water dissipates with the increasing heat. Thus the lobster becomes unconscious long before it can “hurt.”

P.S. Lobsters don’t scream. They have no vocal cords.

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By Carol Ware, July 14, 2006 at 9:26 am #
(Unregistered commenter)

Kudos to Whole Foods and any other store, city, or whatever that decides to quit selling live lobsters to be boiled alive and screaming!  Now, if we could just get them to quit selling meat altogether, what a more humane and peaceful planet this would be. 

GO VEGETARIAN for a better world.

Farm Sanctuary and PETA both have wonderful vegetarian starter kits that you can order online FREE.

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By Jan Gordon, July 13, 2006 at 9:32 pm #
(Unregistered commenter)

I think it is the way the lobster has to die that is upsetting everyone. Other animals that are raised for food suffer and in the end are killed. We, as the ones standing on two legs with things we talk about like, “left brain, right brian,” as the head of the food chain, we need to make sure the animals lead a humane life and are put to death in the least painful way possibe. That is of course if you eat meat or other animals. I do not. They are living, feeling creatures and we have a responsibility to treat them with respect even if we are going to kill them in the end. It would all be so much easier if we just would not eat animals! But that will never happen for most of the human race, so be kind to them and make sure they have a humane death!! You would want the same.

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