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Arts and Culture

Joyful Noises and Joyless Measures in New Orleans

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Posted on Jul 2, 2010
N.O. musicians
AP / Alex Brandon

Alana Jones, left, leads the Treme Brass Band through the French Quarter of New Orleans in a 2007 parade to call attention to the plight of musicians.

By Larry Blumenfeld

(Page 3)

It’s a tough time for Mayor Landrieu and NOPD Superintendent Serpas to give this issue due attention. On June 25, Serpas announced a major reorganization of the department, conducted just as the U.S. Department of Justice begins a civil investigation into the NOPD. And topping Landrieu’s to-do list is dealing with the fallout from the continuing environmental disaster from the failed BP oil well.

Yet issues pertaining to music and culture remain elemental to the city’s continued recovery and its ongoing identity. And Landrieu seems uniquely equipped and predisposed to address them in a logical and sensitive manner. In his previous job, as lieutenant governor of Louisiana, Landrieu fostered an aggressive cultural-economy agenda, which included high-profile conferences and specific legislation creating tax incentives for the film and music industries. Prior to that, as an attorney, he successfully litigated a 1998 case on behalf of French Quarter clubs that facilitated the striking down of the state’s “amusement tax,” which some considered a plague on the New Orleans music and entertainment industry. As seems required in politics these days, Landrieu, upon taking office, promised “change.” And yet his call had a specific flavor. “Change, real change, transformative change, enduring change, comes from the streets,” he insisted during his inaugural address at Gallier Hall. So too, he well knows, does the culture he wishes to promote. His approach to the current cultural matter reflects as well on his role, announced earlier this month, as chairman of the U.S. Conference of Mayors Tourism, Arts, Parks, and Entertainment & Sports Committee.

Now is a moment for Landrieu to signal a clean break from the policies (or lack thereof) of his predecessors, and of long-standing but ill-serving local laws relating to culture, by leading a charge toward sensible reform and rewritten ordinances. While he and his City Council consider the ordinances that tell bands like To Be Continued to keep quite past 8 p.m., why not revisit the full scope of cultural policy that is at odds with New Orleans’ true identity? Why not open the door to a more sensible approach to zoning, and why not give a place at the policy table to musicians and culture-bearers so prominently featured in the tourism ads?

It may well be a new day in New Orleans. Councilwoman Palmer met with members of the To Be Continued band earlier this week, and held another meeting with stakeholders in this issue. “We’re at a really great point,” she told me, “where, instead of simply reacting, we can craft better policies that reflect how we really feel about culture.” She said that all the relevant ordinances are on the table and that she and Landrieu are intent on following through.

Episode three of “Treme” featured another scene worth remembering. Trombone Shorty sits in the green room prior to a New York City post-Katrina benefit concert, eating a slice of pizza and talking to fictional trumpeter Delmond Lambreaux (played by Rob Brown): Delmond is a New Yorker now, swept up in a modern-jazz milieu that makes his hometown seem, to him, somewhat backwater.

“Don’t you miss home?” Shorty asks.

Delmond doesn’t miss a beat. “In New Orleans, they hype the music but they don’t love the musicians. The tradition is there but that city will grind you down if you let it.”

Fictional though he may be, Delmond has a point.

A while back, Mary Howell recalled for me a time, in late 2005, when “illegal music” was all over town. “Music was popping up everywhere,” she said. “In places that never had it and never will have it again, in some that have since been shut down. That was a sign of life, a blood transfusion, a hit of oxygen when we needed it.

“I used to get worried that this specific law or that policy would crush the music,” she said more recently. “But I’ve found some relief in finally and deeply understanding that these laws are problems—they are obstacles, irritants—and they are problematic—unjust, unequally enforced. But the thing is that the music and the culture survives despite it, and finds its way around, over, and under these laws.”

She’s right, and yet this deep and abiding truth perhaps invites a dangerous notion: that a culture developed in opposition to subjugating force requires or is somehow served by or at least lives well in spite of the occasional, capricious and overriding slap-down. But a culture born of struggle needn’t be condemned to struggle, a music that won’t die doesn’t have to endure blow upon non-lethal blow. If New Orleans wishes to restore or even re-create itself, the city would do well to think about this idea.

I’ll never forget, in 2007, at one of Landrieu’s cultural-economy forums, Grenada’s Ambassador Denis G. Antoine saying, at the height of a crime wave: “New Orleans is a perception. When we talk about safety: How safe do you feel? It’s not just about crime, it’s about how safe do you feel to be you?”

Thus far, Palmer and Landrieu, just months into their respective offices, are sounding the right notes regarding recasting a cultural policy that has long been woefully out of tune. Maybe they can do as the brass bands do: Pick up the rhythm, and collectively improvise something useful that everyone can fall in line behind. We’d all feel safer.

Larry Blumenfeld has written about New Orleans culture, politics and recovery for Truthdig, The Wall Street Journal, The Village Voice, Salon and other publications. He was a 2006-7 Katrina Media Fellow for The Open Society Institute.

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By Bill Shepard, July 16, 2010 at 9:24 pm Link to this comment
(Unregistered commenter)

New Orleans street jazz IS the “private sector”. What
would you have instead, government approved jazz?

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By W. Royal Stokes, July 10, 2010 at 6:43 am Link to this comment
(Unregistered commenter)

July 8, 2010 at 12:01 pm


Below is a medley of arresting sentiments culled from Larry Blumenfeld’s
splendid essay on the current musical scene in New Orleans.

“Where are the incubators? . . . The streets are incubators and critical venues. . .
. Whereas in most cities culture trickles down from the top, in New Orleans it
bubbles up from the street. . . . Change, real change, transformative change,
enduring change, comes from the streets. . . . As a culture, we’ve been doing it
for 100 years or more, and we’re not about to stop. . . . But the thing is that the
music and the culture survives despite it, and finds its way around, over, and
under these laws.”

As one who fell in love with the city’s music in the early 1940s during the New
Orleans Revival and has followed its developments, in all its variety of forms,
over the course of seven decades, it renders me very sad indeed to learn of the
stifling of this basic and essential aspect of the area’s culture. To cite only one
of the many styles of the city’s rich music that I enjoy, I continue to listen to
and profit from the sounds of Bunk Johnson, King Oliver, Freddie Keppard,
George Lewis, Jim Robinson, Papa Celestin, and other pioneers, as well as the
younger generations of musicians who followed in the footsteps of their
predecessors, for example, the Preservation Hall groups. I have recently been
renewing my acquaintance (first made in the 1950s via LP) with the Jelly Roll
Morton Library of Congress Recordings (remastered and reissued on eight
Rounder CDs several years ago). No student of New Orleans jazz, or of the city
itself, should be unfamiliar with master raconteur Jelly’s epic 1938 piano-
accompanied “first hand account of a largely undocumented world that existed
a century ago and still has a profound effect on present day jazz and popular
music (from an Amazon.com customer Comment).

wroyalstokes.com

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thebeerdoctor's avatar

By thebeerdoctor, July 6, 2010 at 7:17 pm Link to this comment

omisaide7’s 11:31 am comment is the best on this thread, for its distinctively accurate observations.

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By omisaide7, July 6, 2010 at 6:31 am Link to this comment
(Unregistered commenter)

new Orleans is and was a distinct enchanted place unlike no other in the US. Full of culture unlike no other. My birthplace and the birthplace of my Mother’s Mother’s is a connection to another time and era. We are the gateway to the carribean right here on native soil. Where souls of the African, Indian, French and Spanish collide to create this great big melting pot-Da Gumbo. Their are those who want to harness this national treasure and pre-package for commercial use only(corporatize it). Their are those who want to contain and only take it out as an ole photo album when guess come along-other than that put up-HUSH! the day tuba died, We cleaned him up, shrouded him, and awaited his grandmother and them. The moment he took his last breath, he CD was played loudly thru out the building and we fanned and danced-only in New Orleans. I look at Treme so differently now since I was small. So many strangers there,culture vultures and all. I will have to begin to write the stories I know…Like Troy Micheals Pitbull’s funeral and stuff for future generations. Our New Orleans is secretly being wrestled away-its authenicity lost to those who want to infuse their images into the backdrop. Farewell beautiful Lady-mi fille, jolie

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By thebeerdoctor, July 6, 2010 at 12:10 am Link to this comment

@ UreKismet
My NO comments were overly harsh. This perception came about due to the incredible corruption of the New Orleans Police Force and the post-Katrina hiring of Blackwater operatives to supposedly maintain order. So there is a built-in bias to see things from the viewpoint of the not-economically-connected, where it becomes quickly apparent that if you are poor, there is the distinct possibility that bad things will happen to you, which is often the case. But of course that is only one tiny portion of the overall picture, so please forgive my angry simplification.

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By Armond Aserinsky, July 5, 2010 at 6:06 pm Link to this comment
(Unregistered commenter)

Thanks to Larry Blumenfeld for a heartfelt and enlightening essay on a city that has a genuine folk culture worth nurturing, but which in an age of “business uber alles” is awash in the same commercial noise that busts our eardrums in every urban center across the entire country.  Surely there are solutions to urban decay other than chain stores, but one sees in city after city the same soulless emporiums of coffee and clothing. You can even go abroad and find as I did that a Foot Locker had taken up space on the ground floor of a 12th century cathedral (in Bruges). I know that the upkeep of a church that’s over 800 years old costs a lot of money, but there has to be a better way of preserving a cultural treasure than by trading in pieces of that treasure for a ton or two of dreck.
Too much is left to the “private sector”. What we have is not freedom as those on the right would have us believe but a tyranny of the dollar. Choices do not increase in a capitalism that allows unlimited growth of corporations.

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UreKismet's avatar

By UreKismet, July 5, 2010 at 3:20 pm Link to this comment

The beerdoctor’s comments strikes me as overly harsh.  Although I haven’t been to NO since Katrina by the sound of it now it would be an even better fit for the role I believed it had in the 1980’s.
That is as a sort of Potemkin village, model city showing humanity exactly what happens when you roll out cardboard cut out pretend democracy over centuries of nepotism and murderous corruption.
The dire scorched earth policy being practised in the former public housing areas won’t get a look in on the one place it is most needed and that is the patronage of a voracious and inhumane political machine.

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By Richard_Ralph_Roehl, July 5, 2010 at 11:49 am Link to this comment

Twenty Earth years from now… most of New Orleans will be ashes under poisoned salt water.

New Orleans does not need another tuba parade. It needs full scale rioting.

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By grumpynyker, July 5, 2010 at 6:20 am Link to this comment
(Unregistered commenter)

My favorite scenes in Treme involved Albert (Mardi Gras
Big Chief) and his futile efforts to get loans to
repair his property plus the runaround on re-opening
the mostly undamaged public housing adjacent to the
French Quarter.  Pity David Mills died; hopefully he
would’ve written more incisive scenes about the
collusion by insurance co/banks/politicians/developers
in the corruption/ethnic cleansing of New Orleans.

Report this

By ContentGuru, July 4, 2010 at 11:55 am Link to this comment

As a recent visitor - having returned to New Orleans after over 25 years away - the biggest shock for me was the decline in professionalism and pride for workaday musicians around Bourbon Street.  Bourbon Street caters to mostly drunken and rowdy college students, and the clubs are now dominated by T&A joints.  The few live music venues were the most cynical and cliched versions of traditional New Orleans jazz and bad R&B.  As the author writes, the one chance to hear music with real authentic spirit on Bourbon Street was that brass band on the street in front of the Foot Locker store.  Once I got away from Bourbon Street, the real New Orleans music scene was alive and well on Frenchman Street - and it was terrific!  Still - it’s a shame that so many great musicians and young ones learning their craft have to work for tips, fight off obnoxious drunks, and deal with unpredictable public policy and arbitrary enforcement of laws.

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By thebeerdoctor, July 3, 2010 at 2:41 am Link to this comment

This article serves as a powerful incentive to never ever visit that wretched city, sustained by legendary delusions. Even Louis Armstrong found it to be an appalling city, back in the 1950’s.

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