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Would You Like Sugar and Fat With That?

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Posted on Mar 22, 2012

By Jane Black

“The American Way of Eating: Undercover at Walmart, Applebee’s, Farm Fields and the Dinner Table”
A book by Tracie McMillan

Most food writers begin their tales with fond reminiscences of the great grub they grew up with: mom’s Sunday meatballs or the secret recipe for grandma’s beloved Christmas cookies. Tracie McMillan takes the opposite tack. She grew up in a working-class family in Flint, Mich., eating Ortega Taco dinners and salads made with iceberg lettuce and Wish-Bone Ranch dressing. The lesson that her grandmother taught her was that any meal that took time or money to prepare—or, worse, both—was for “fancy” people. Her father called them snobs.

It was only after a decade in New York that McMillan began to question the assumption she had been spoon-fed since childhood. On the poverty beat for a small magazine, she was assigned to cover a cooking class for city youth. There she met Vanessa, a classic “mouthy” Bronx teen who explained that, sure, she ate a lot of fast food. But she’d much prefer to eat broccoli and tomatoes—if they were affordable and easily available in her neighborhood.

That was McMillan’s aha moment. Why, she wondered, is it so difficult for so many Americans to eat well? To find out, she went undercover in a series of unskilled jobs that took her, as she describes it, from farm to plate: She labors as a farmhand in California, picking grapes, sorting peaches and cutting garlic. She stocks shelves at a Walmart in suburban Michigan. She expedites orders at a busy Applebee’s in Brooklyn. And she lives on the paltry wages that she earns to see what culinary compromises she is forced to make. Along the way, she unpacks how these jobs, and the corporate food chain as a whole, have evolved and shape the way we eat. Think of it as the food version of “Nickel and Dimed,” Barbara Ehrenreich’s classic undercover investigation into life in low-wage America.

book cover

 

The American Way of Eating: Undercover at Walmart, Applebee’s, Farm Fields and the Dinner Table

 

By Tracie McMillan

 

Scribner, 336 pages

 

Buy the book

McMillan is a lively storyteller. It’s not easy to create narrative tension while describing repetitive, menial jobs such as unloading pallets of processed foods, but somehow she keeps readers’ attention. “Like any stranger in a foreign land, I’m overwhelmed by the landscape around me,” she writes of her first overnight shift in the grocery department of a Walmart in Kalamazoo. “Finding the Great Value (the Walmart house brand) flour is akin to locating North America on a map, but locating the solitary strip of Great Value Sugar-Free Strawberry Banana Gelatin is more like being tasked with finding the capital of Bhutan.”

More important, her investigation pulls back the curtain on a host of unsavory practices along the food chain. At McMillan’s first stop, in the garlic fields of California’s Salinas Valley, she discovers how companies avoid paying workers the minimum wage. “The problem is that, somewhere between the farm and our paychecks, the company is changing the number of hours for which it is paying us,” she writes, explaining a friend’s paltry earnings. “Even though Rosalinda’s tarjeta will show that she came in at 5:30 a.m. and left at 2:30 p.m., a nine-hour day, her check will say she was there for two hours—exactly the number of hours she would have had to work at minimum wage ($8) to earn what she made via piece rate ($16).” As most workers are illegal, they have no recourse to get their due. To make the equivalent of minimum wage, McMillan notes, a picker would have to be superhuman, plucking half a ton of garlic in eight hours.

To see long excerpts from “The American Way of Eating” at Google Books, click here.

Later, at Walmart, she shows how workers “crisp” limp greens—soaking the leaves in lukewarm water, then plunging them into a cooler—so they appear fresh. (No wonder “fresh” produce rots so fast in the crisper drawer.) At Applebee’s, McMillan is given no food-safety training for her job overseeing the plates that go out to customers. When a corporate inspector arrives, fellow workers prompt her to lie about her training and feed her the answers to technical questions. The inspector is so impressed that she recommends McMillan as a potential manager.

The problem is that her well-written narrative doesn’t help to unravel the mystery McMillan set out to solve at the beginning: Why don’t low-income families eat more fresh and healthy food? Unlike Ehrenreich in “Nickel and Dimed,” McMillan is not content to simply show what life is like on the front lines of the industrial food system. She has set for herself the thorny task of connecting those realities to the larger issue of why people eat cheap and processed food. And that is far more complicated than the tales of abuses in the field, shortcuts at Walmart and mass-produced cuisine at Applebee’s can explain.

These stories do not allow for the many people who simply prefer the end products of our industrial system. If such food is really an abomination, who were all those customers keeping cooks so busy at the Brooklyn Applebee’s? McMillan never ventures out of the kitchen to find out. The low-income families she holds up as models are for the most part first- and second-generation immigrants who brought with them a food culture that values home-cooked food.

 

 

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By heterochromatic, March 29, 2012 at 1:39 pm Link to this comment

RAE—- you’re pretty much an ignorant person spreading nonsense.

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RAE's avatar

By RAE, March 29, 2012 at 8:47 am Link to this comment

I hope everyone reads and understands Andrea (March 23 1:05pm). She is dead on with her observations and conclusions.

For reasons that would confound Solomon, the food and drug “establishment” simply will NOT provide the general public with the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth regarding their products.

“Beliefs” about foods and drugs are as entrenched as religious dogma and about as difficult to change. Just take a look at the miles of shelving full of utter CRAP in your food stores all shouting “LOW FAT!!!!” as if that meant one damned thing. (Well, it does mean one thing - almost a certainty that the SUGAR and SALT will be sky high.)

FAT DOES NOT CAUSE OBESITY.

“Dietary fat is NOT a major determinant of body fat and plays virtually NO ROLE IN OBESITY.” Dr. Walter Willett, chairman of the Department of Nutrition at Harvard University’s School of Public Health.

If YOU are one of those who cannot or will not accept this truth, then YOU are part of the problem.

It’s not WHAT you eat that makes you fat… it’s what your body DOES with what you eat that is the determining factor. It takes study and an awareness of YOUR system to get a handle on the highly complex nature of how our bodies deal with food. There’s a LOT for most people to learn.

For example, are you aware that our bodies do NOT need CARBOHYDRATE - ANY carbohydrate - to survive quite well, thank you? It’s true. We need protein and we need fat (fatty acids) but whatever carbs our bodies require can be manufactured by the body from protein and fat.

So why does the American Dietetic Association still recommend that “the lion’s share of our calories come from the one macronutrient (carbohydrate) we can survive quite well without?” (Living Low Carb - Jonny Bowden, PhD)

Especially since it’s carbs - sugars and starches - those addictive, great tasting drugs that cause insulin to skyrocket, hunger cravings to become irresistable, and FAT FAT FAT people waddling everywhere you look.

Please read and learn and use your heads people, or continue to die like flies until you do get the message.

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By bluejeanne, March 26, 2012 at 8:34 am Link to this comment
(Unregistered commenter)

Heterochro—


Thanks for the suggestion.  Sure, I’m familiar with Safflower and Sunflower oils.  Also Sesame, Walnut, Grapeseed. Unfortunately Soybean and Corn oils are most likely derived from GMO crops.

Yet Olive oil has become quite a story in itself as described by Tom Mueller in his book

Extra Virginity Olive Oil: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil

http://www.Extravirginity.com

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By heterochromatic, March 25, 2012 at 8:18 pm Link to this comment

blue——there is no controversy over the superiority of olive oil to other oils of
fats that tend to solidify at room temperature.

if you’ve a problem with olive, try safflower or sunflower oil

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By bluejeanne, March 25, 2012 at 2:25 pm Link to this comment
(Unregistered commenter)

The garlic fields of Salinas Valley ?  Take a look at the tiny mesh bags of garlic that are being imported from China and are available in the produce section of most groceries now.  If the farm laborers aren’t being paid anywhere near a fair wage in California what could the Chinese farmers be possibly being paid ? Mexican farm laborers competing with Chinese farm workers!  What unconscienable corporations are pitting agricultural laborers against each other ? 

And as far as olive oil being superior to other oils there is a huge controversy re: the origin of olive oil.  In the book Extra Virginity Olive Oil the author discusses the scam relating to the processing of olive oil pressed in countries such as Turkey and Tunisia but labelled as extra virgin olive oil originating from Italy.

The global exporting and importing of food is very unregulated and another reason for ever-increasing food costs and inequities in food distribution.

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By heterochromatic, March 24, 2012 at 8:38 pm Link to this comment

and the meat of today is a wee bit leaner than the stuff consumed by the
ancestors….

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By Anarcissie, March 24, 2012 at 8:28 pm Link to this comment

The red meat eaten today is not the kind of red meat that was eaten by our ancestors, which sadly lacked food coloring, antibiotics, growth hormones, and other interesting chemicals, and which largely ran through the woods and across the fields, instead of being raised in pens on a diet of ground-up cows, plastic beads, cellulose by-products, and shit.

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By heterochromatic, March 24, 2012 at 6:07 pm Link to this comment

Maani——ut’s not the beef and pork of itself that’s bad it’s the fat content.


and no one has ever revoked the warning that butter isn’t healthy.

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By Maani, March 24, 2012 at 5:46 pm Link to this comment

EmileZ:

Yes, advertising is a big part.  So, of course, is the lobbying by the various food industries (meat, sugar, etc.).  See Super Size Me, Food Nation, etc.

Another aspect is that people may simply be confused (and thus become apathetic) when the government changes its mind.  For example, butter was “bad” - until it wasn’t.  Eggs were “bad” - until they weren’t.  Sugar was “bad” - until is wasn’t.  Salt was “bad” - until it wasn’t.  Etc., etc.

Ultimately, in all the cases above, is was (obviously) about moderation (in conjunction, of course, with one’s family and medical history, and how much exercise one gets).

The current “red meat” scare is of a piece with this.  Personally, I think it is poppycock.  Why?  Three main reasons:

-Human have been eating red meat since the dawn of time - yet lifespans have INCREASED over the millenia and centuries.  Yes, other factors are involved (better food safety, medical and health care, etc.).  But until these two studies, not a single study (out of hundreds, possibly thousands) showed any correlation between eating red meat and shortened lifespans.

-Humans’ teeth were created for omnivorous eating: we have incisors (recessed only one step) for “tearing” and molars (flatter than most mammals) for chewing.

-Our stomachs naturally create the enzyme that breaks down red meat.  This is DNA-related; i.e., “built in.”  If we were not meant to eat red meat, we would not have carried that enzyme through tens of thousands of years.

I predict that the red meat “scare,” too, will eventually be “tempered” by more reasonable calls for “moderation.”

Of course, if you are a conspiracy theorist, you might see this entire “red meat” scare as a way to get the 99% to eat chicken and pork, while the 1% keep all the (perfectly safe) red meat for themselves…

Peace.

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By EmileZ, March 23, 2012 at 6:52 pm Link to this comment

Not funny Surfboy.

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By Andrea, March 23, 2012 at 2:05 pm Link to this comment
(Unregistered commenter)

I just don’t believe that eating healthy food is too expensive and that’s why
Americans eat junk.  I don’t make much money but I manage to make simple
vegetable, meat/fish dishes and even on the days when I don’t cook I try to find
something that’s not bad for me.
I think the reasons for eating badly are this:
1.  Convenience:  When you work long hours at minimum wage, you’re fucking
tired and the last thing you want to do is buy fresh produce and cook from
scratch.
2. Lack of Education:  People are not aware of the shit that is in the processed
food they buy, and they don’t know which food does what to their bodies. 
Education about the value of food, nutrition and health has to start early.  We
are also completely disconnected from the food we eat, the earth itself. 
3. Addiction:  Junk food and unhealthy foods are addictive!  Sugar, fat, and
additives make anything taste good and bring comfort to the body on the short
term.  Healthy food will not taste good to someone who is used to eat junk and
processed stuff!  Training the palate to appreciate natural ingredients has to
start early to avoid the constant cravings.

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By heterochromatic, March 23, 2012 at 12:37 pm Link to this comment

I’m kinda afraid to ask what you watched Herman doing in those videos.

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EmileZ's avatar

By EmileZ, March 23, 2012 at 12:27 pm Link to this comment

@ heterochromatic

Never tried speedballs, more of a coffe man myself, but I did used to deep fry donuts and it wasn’t the same, though I am quite sure they are bad for you.

Come back when you have not only watched Herman Cain’s training videos (which are actually quite peppy and silly), but when you have worked the “cut table” for at least a few months. True story.

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By heterochromatic, March 23, 2012 at 10:50 am Link to this comment

——You could probably smoke before you did speedballs——

don’t you find that you want to smoke much more AFTER your speedball?

———


pizza helll, try working a grill and a deep-fryer if you want to go home with a head
full of grease…. I did that for a year

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By balkas, March 23, 2012 at 9:58 am Link to this comment

some days i do not eat meat or fish. i eat mostly well-boiled chicken. that reduces some fat. i seldom eat more
than 300 calories of it; and i never salt my meats or fish.
i eat fish almost every day; usually salmon and in small amounts.
i eat green/dried beans/peas, basmati/brown rice, lentils, millet nearly all vegetables, yams, sweet potatoes.
i use only olive oil. instead of salt, i use nikkoman sauce. seldom eat anything sweet.
when i am at computer, i stand. however, since external beam radiation treatment on my prostate, i lately have to
sit down now and then, because i get so tired on my legs.
i still manage to remain on my legs anywhere from 7-11 hrs a day.
i am about 20 pounds overweight. seems, i am even losing some fat; perhaps pound or so every 3 mo’s.
===
btw, you want to know what my wife said to me??? she said, Bob, get a new ass!! yes, yes, my dear, i sure cld use a
nicer looking one, that’s for sure.
but the next day she sort of apologized by saying, Bob, you’re three quarters deaf! i didn’t say that—i said, Bob,
get off your ass! well, that second advice was even better that the first one.

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EmileZ's avatar

By EmileZ, March 23, 2012 at 9:35 am Link to this comment

@ heterochromatic

You could probably smoke before you did speedballs and live longer than you would on a diet of sloppy joes provided you were careful.

P.S. EmileZ does not encourage smoking, speedballs or sloppy joes, but if you had to choose one…. well, nevermind.

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By mrfreeze, March 23, 2012 at 9:06 am Link to this comment

Face it: For the last generation, Americans have been utterly and totally engulfed by an “anti-food culture” which is a life of eating “manufactured filth.” Of course, they have been taught to quote the corporate mantra: “I’m just too busy to cook.” The fact is, we have become a nation of filth-eaters and every time people spend their hard earned money in a fast-food-filth-factory or purchase 50% of the garbage in the grocery stores, they are pouring money into the coffers of corporations that don’t give a shit about their health, safety or welfare.

I worked my way through high school and college as a professional cook and I subsequently worked in some nice restaurants over the years so I know a little about good food. I also spend a good amount of time in Italy which (despite the onslaught of Americanized-filth-factory food habits) remains a place where people are far more discriminating about what they put in their mouths. The average Italian child has a palate far more refined and discriminating than American adults whose only purpose in eating is to load their maws with as large a portion of whatever shit they can pay the least amount of money for.

Is it any wonder that bookstores have “cooking” sections in which the shelves are groaning under the weight of millions of fancy books about all sorts of cuisine and yet, most Americans don’t cook from scratch. When push comes to shove it’s “off to the filth factory” to eat McGarbage…........

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By heterochromatic, March 23, 2012 at 9:03 am Link to this comment

smoking kills you quicker, and more painfully , if you’re smoking tobacco .

you might do better using a vaporizer before munchieing your sloppy joes.

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EmileZ's avatar

By EmileZ, March 23, 2012 at 8:43 am Link to this comment

@ heterochromatic

Which is why I think smoking, bad as it is, pales in comparison to the crap we are encouraged to eat, starting from a very young age, often even before we purchase the shit.

As a teenager, I used to work at a pizza place and the grease would literally soak into your entire body.

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By heterochromatic, March 23, 2012 at 8:24 am Link to this comment

EZ——- It IS the advertising .......as well as that people never learn much in way of
what a healthy diet requires….and that people in the end don’t much care to
forego fatty, sweet and salty foods.

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EmileZ's avatar

By EmileZ, March 23, 2012 at 8:24 am Link to this comment

@ Anarcissie

If by now you see you mean ME…

All I see is a smart-ass rat.

All I learned in Home Economics was to prepare sloppy joes and such.

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By Anarcissie, March 23, 2012 at 7:05 am Link to this comment

People used to laugh at home economics classes.  Now you see.

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By john morris, March 23, 2012 at 6:32 am Link to this comment
(Unregistered commenter)

dear friends ,I thank you for the e-mails.In Britain, England,London,there is still “a make a meal” culture, although in our more expensive supermarket Waitrose the majority of food available is prepared meals,our famous “marks and spencers” stocks mostly prepared meals.Living in the center of London there are no longer fishmongers,butchers,fruiterers etc.just large,medium and small supermarkets.With the Olympic Games, places are catering now for tourists and of cource students who are slowly taking over the center of London,as there is the huge U.C.L University and the Westminster University which the students want to live nearby to as London is not a car city but depends on very expensive privatised underground train and bus companies.Many good wishes regards john Morris

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By EmileZ, March 23, 2012 at 5:03 am Link to this comment

Renaldo & The Loaf - Hambu Hodo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nlj3IdPjOrU

(Hambu=hamburger, Hodo=Hotdog)

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By EmileZ, March 23, 2012 at 4:06 am Link to this comment

It is all the damn advertising and such. It is part of our culture.

It is difficult to break away from.

Also, in many neighborhoods it is difficult to find healthy food.

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